The trendy New York restaurant wd-50 is a destination for foodies, thanks to chef Wylie Dufresne. Dufresne is a leader in the culinary movement called molecular gastronomy. Using surprising chemicals like liquid nitrogen, Dufresne invents dishes that both charm and confound. Kurt Andersen visits wd-50’s kitchen laboratory, where Dufresne begins to make our dish du jour: Eggs Benedict.