A look at the culture and tradition behind brewing sake in Japan

Following its inclusion on UNESCO’s cultural heritage list, Japanese brewers hope to showcase the true identity of sake and the hundreds of years of tradition behind the popular drink.

The World
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It can be sweet. It can be tangy. And as of December, it has also been enshrined by UNESCO. The United Nation’s culture agency placed sake, the iconic Japanese drink, on its list of “intangible cultural heritage of humanity.”

Sake, a fermented rice wine, has been a cornerstone of Japanese culture for over two millennia. To understand what makes it so special, The World visited one of Japan’s oldest breweries — Fukumitsuya, in the historic city of Kanazawa.

The secret to good sake is water and rice, and then the magic ingredient: koji, a mold that breaks down the rice starch into sugar, creating the foundation for fermentation.Rebecca Rosman/The World

A 400-Year-Old Tradition

It all starts with water. 

At Fukumitsuya, which has been crafting sake for nearly 400 years, it means relying on pristine water sourced from nearby Mount Hakusan. 

Akemi Hiraki, a cheerful guide at the brewery, handed out samples of this luxurious water, which she said “takes more than 100 years to come down the mountain to [Fukumitsuya’s] water well.”

Akemi Hiraki, a guide at Fukumitsuya Sake Brewery in Kanazawa, says the secret to good sake starts with high-quality rice and water.Rebecca Rosman/The World

This water is used to make sake — a beverage deeply rooted in Japanese history and craftsmanship.

At its core, sake is made from three key ingredients: water, rice, and koji — a mold that breaks down rice starch into sugar, kickstarting fermentation. 

Colossal tanks filled with rice, water and koji powder are closely monitored by the brewery’s toji, or master brewer. The total fermentation process takes around two months from start to finish.Rebecca Rosman/The World

This process is carefully overseen by the brewery’s toji, or master brewer, who monitors the sake mash daily, checking its aroma, sweetness and acidity to determine the ideal time to press it.

In the pressing room, the liquid is separated from the rice solids, leaving behind a byproduct called sake kasu, which is repurposed in food and cosmetics.

The final step of the sake process is pressing. In the pressing room, the sake liquid is separated from the rice solids. The leftover mash, called sake kasu, is used as a food additive or even in cosmetics.Rebecca Rosman/The World

More than just sake bombs 

Once the brewing process is complete, learning how to enjoy sake properly is the next step.

Monica Samuels, the president of the sake import group Kome Collective, spends a good chunk of the year traveling across Japan in search of the country’s best sake. 

At a bustling sake bar inside a Japanese train station, she explained how different sakes range in flavor and talked through a tasting experience.

Different kinds of sake use different kinds of rice to create a variety of flavors.Rebecca Rosman/The World

The sake ranged from fruity to dry, and it was apparent that the drink offers far more depth than many Americans realize. 

For decades, sake’s reputation in the US was tied to mass-produced versions served at sushi restaurants, often consumed in shots known as sake bombs.

Samuels believes that UNESCO’s designation could help change that perception and introduce more people to the craftsmanship behind authentic Japanese sake.

The sake brew master, or toji, inspects around a dozen tanks at various stages of the fermentation process.Rebecca Rosman/The World

“Many [Americans] have only had sake experiences like that, and it’s really cheap and really harsh, so they think it’s like vodka,” she said. “But now, with the art of sake being recognized, there’s an opportunity to showcase its true identity.”

As Japan celebrates sake’s inclusion on UNESCO’s list, brewers and enthusiasts alike hope this newfound recognition will help preserve and elevate the tradition for generations to come.

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